Our trekking dream began in February 2014, when my brother Ben and his family and friends went on a trek to Annapurna Base Camp. They’re seasoned travelers, but on their return to Australia I could see that they were curiously ecstatic about their journey. I understood then that trekking in Nepal was an experience I wanted to share with my husband Tony and our two boys (10 and 13). Tony and I had travelled, mainly in Europe, in our younger years. I had even worked as an editor at Lonely Planet for some years, but we’d never travelled abroad as a family with children. The prospect of trekking together through the Himalayas was at once exciting and daunting – the mountains, and Nepal itself, seemed incredibly alluring but also unpredictable. Our trip started by a welcome from Binod at the Kathmandu airport with the traditional flower garlands. A few days later we had a scenic flight from Pokhara over the Kali Gandaki River between Annapurna and Dhaulagiri to Jomson, where we started our trekking-tour.

It was Ben’s description of the strong connection that their group made with local guide Binod Mahat, who owns and operates his own small company Hike Nepal, that gave us the courage to book the trip. From the first email, Binod reassured us by replying warmly and in clear English. Our confidence built with his prompt replies to our many emailed queries. By now, another family from Australia, our friend Jan and her son (also 13), decided to join us for our planned 3 1/2 week trip to ABC, Pokhara, Chitwan and Kathmandu from December 2014 to early January 2015. Adding to our pre-trip frissons, was the awareness that our journey would be in mid-winter, with the possibility of snowfall towards Base Camp. To assist us with equipping ourselves, Binod emailed us a checklist of gear and medical supplies. In our different ways, we also prepared by conditioning ourselves physically for hiking at altitude over rugged terrain. All this preparation was made easier by Binod’s clear and calm guidance via email and the information on his website.

It’s been 2 weeks since we returned home, and thanks to Hike Nepal our trip was the wonderful experience we hoped it would be. With characteristic dependability, Binod was there, as promised, to meet our weary party on arrival at Tribhuvan airport in chaotic Kathmandu. Although we arrived in the midst of an unseasonable bout of rain, snow and delayed flights, our logistical mastermind ensured that we flew out to Pokhara to start the trek as planned the next morning. On arrival in Pokhara, the weather lifted and we soon met up with our porters (Chandra, Jitendra and Manoz) and our guide-porter Saroz. It was several days into the trek before we realized that Jitendra, Manoz and Saroz are all members of Binod’s extended family, while delightful Chandra has known and worked with Binod for years. So, in the end it turned out to really be a family affair, and we enjoyed the company of our cheerful Nepalese companions. The ‘boys’, as we called the young porters, took a shine to our boys, teaching them card games. Saroz was particularly lovely with our kids, shepherding them as they ran far ahead of the slower adults, helping them join in a volleyball game with village kids in Chomrong, and teaming up in a basketball game in Ghorepani. A word of advice: you definitely want Saroz on your side!

Meanwhile, we enjoyed Binod’s company as he is an excellent conversationalist and full of information about life in Nepal and the Annapurna region, where he grew up. When we had downtime, Binod took Tony and me on a walking tour of the fascinating village of Gandhruk, and also of Chomrong, stopping to involve us in conversations with local people. Binod is perceptive about people and was attuned to our needs – spoiling us with unstinting service. Having guided treks in the area for years, he knows most of the teahouses and personnel and where to find the best rooms. I had the impression that other trekkers could see we were being very well looked after indeed by our eloquent guide. Binod’s organizational capacities are amazing too – somehow he managed to juggle his mobile phone on the trail to coordinate details, ordering ahead for lunch to ensure we would not be kept waiting at the next teahouse, or whistling up four tandem paragliding flights (for mothers and teenage sons) in Pokhara, after the trek, and during a busy festival. Oh, and then there was the minor miracle of scouring the village of Chomrong to produce a Christmas tree and chocolate cake for us on Christmas Eve! Not to mention presents as well.

We made it to Annapurna Base Camp, and the experience of standing in that cirque surrounded by colossal walls of rock, ice and snow as the sun rose was unforgettable. But the villages and layered landscapes we passed through on the way up and down were captivating too, providing glimpses into a way of life so different to our own, yet so wholesome and delightful in many respects, despite some tough realities. The Nepalese people have great warmth and positivity, and there were smiling faces and cries of ‘namaste’ all along the way. Our trek was certainly the highlight of our trip to Nepal and it was really sad to say goodbye to ‘the boys’ over lunch in Pokhara, and to Binod too eventually. However, the remainder of our trip ran smoothly and we saw a very different part of Nepal on the plains of Chitwan. We were certainly glad of Binod’s hand-picked drivers in our private taxi-vans on the way down to Chitwan and back to Kathmandu as Nepalese highways are an indescribable tangle of traffic. On return to Kathmandu, the highlight was the day we spent visiting Bhaktapur, Pashupatinath and Boudinath with Shankar, the delightful guide arranged by Hike Nepal. Our Nepal trip ended with Jitendra accompanying us to the airport and placing khata (silk scarves) around our necks to speed us on our way – rituals had come full circle as Binod initially welcomed us by lowering marigold garlands over our heads.

Best wishes,
Francesca Coles
Australia

Francesca and Tony
Australia