Nepal is a land of remote mountain village. Most of
rural Nepal is located in high mountains, inaccessible
by roads. Consequently all necessities are carried into
the remotest corners on porters’ backs. You will see
them consistently along your trek: men and women of all
ages, mostly from lower casts, such as Tamang and Rai,
bent over, with heavy baskets hanging from a flat woven
plastic band across their foreheads. They carry hip-high
T-shaped sticks on which they rest their loads to take
breaks on the steep uphill climbs. As you walk past
group of porters with your own load on your back, you
begin to appreciate their hard labor and their cheerful
attitude that always leaves room for a friendly
“namaste” and a smile.
There are two categories of porters: those working for
the local communities and the others working in the
tourist trade. A smaller, third group are local vendors
who buy supplies themselves and sell them along the way.
Local porters are hired by local businesses to carry
supplies to shops and lodges, and they are paid by the
weight of their loads. No allowances are given for food
and lodging along the way, and certainly not for
clothes, shoes, or other equipment. They walk incredible
distances in all kinds of weather, often wearing nothing
but cheap plastic slippers on their feet, working very
hard for very little money. To save money, they cook
their own food and sleep in caves along the way,
sometimes on local teahouses’ floors.
The tourist porters’ jobs are marginally better. They
get paid a daily rate, ranging from a measly Rs.300 to a
good Rs.800, depending on their loads, the route, and
the agreement with the agency or the independent guide.
Their daily distance is determined by the tourists’
itinerary and tends to be less than that of the local
porters. They often eat and sleep in the same lodges
where their tourists groups are staying, though mostly
in dormitories. Still, their work is extremely hard,
especially on camping treks and climbing expeditions
that require huge loads. Recently, some changes have
taken place to make their lives a bit easier.
The non-profit organization Porters’ Progress (
www.portersprogress.org ) was established in 2000 to
help protect the interests and livelihood of porters. It
serves as a job distribution center, and offers a
lending program for equipment and clothes. Classes in
English, health, hygiene and altitude sickness
prevention are being held at its office in Lukla.
Unfortunately many of these services don’t reach the
local porters who have to abide by the rules of the
local economy as well as the rigidity of the Nepali cast
system.
As a traveler to the remote areas of Nepal you can act
responsibly by insisting on fair treatment of your
porters. Discuss this with your guide during the
planning process. Any used clothing and equipment you
wish to donate after your trip will be accepted with
gratitude because it will help someone who would never
have access to such items and whose livelihood depends
on it.
And, of course, tip your porters after the successful
completion of your trip, typically 1 day wage for every
4 days of work. Remember, they work hard for you, their
working season is limited, and most of them have
families that depend on their support. They are porters
because they have no alternatives. You will never be
ridiculed for being too generous!
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